ILFORD FILM PROCESSING CHART
For those of you developing at home (or those of you wanting to) here is a full chart for film processing times with every type of Ilford film and chemicals. I have always said that if you follow directions, you can develop and print your own photographs. This just makes it easier than looking on the tiny box.
Grab the PDF from Ilford’s website for a larger version!
This is a fabulous guide from Kodak (almost as fabulous as my Beginner’s Guide to Film Photography) for improving your darkroom technique. It covers basics like achieving proper negative density and avoiding kinks in your film when developing, along with facts and tips about fogging and how to avoid it.
It also covers test strips, mixing and storing chemicals the push process in depth; using variable contrast paper; and the differences, benefits and drawbacks of RC and fiber papers. There’s even a section on hand-coloring your black and white prints (which I can quickly state from experience always works better on fiber paper). Here’s a direct link to download the PDF: Kodak’s Black-and-White Tips and Techniques for Darkroom Enthusiasts
I’ve listed a few distance processing labs on the Links/Resources page, but one of the most obvious places to go would be right to the source itself: Ilford. Now, granted we are talking about black and white but in reality, isn’t it more difficult to find a good black and white lab? Most cities and towns still have a one hour photo that will process your color film in 3 days, nay? (That was a little photo humor for those of you who didn’t catch it.)
The good part is that you don’t have to shoot Ilford film to use their processing:
“We process all types of 35mm and 120 Black and White film, including non-ILFORD films and colour process black and white films”
Sweet. They also scan (yay!) and offer silver prints from film, digital prints from film, or prints from digital files. So no more complaining that you don’t have access to a good black and white lab.
Thanks for the info….
I can’t say I would recommend “the cheapest” since cheap film developing can lead to lots of problems… but there are definitely some reasonable options out there. I did a post on online film developing here: http://istillshootfilm.org/post/455470148/online-film-developing
Yes! You can head on over to my lab, Atelier Publimod at 26 Rue Sevigne in the 4th (metro Saint Paul, line 1)
I have been using them for 6 years and counting…
actually, at my lab (the glorious Atelier Publimod, where everyone should go) processing plus contact sheet for a roll of black and white 120 is 13,50 euros…. which isn’t bad when you consider the contact sheets are done by hand. There is also a small photo lab on Rue Saint Antoine, closer to the Bastille (after Rue Beautreillis, next to the Jeff de Bruges chocolate place and across from Cafe L’Arsenal) that does really really cheap developing… like 4 euros a roll for 35mm and 5,50 for 120… but like I said it’s cheap developing, which often means chemical streaks and spots and scratches. Personally, I would never drop anything important at a cheap photo lab. Plus, let me just say this: if people don’t use professional photo labs, they will go out of business. Seriously. My lab had 25 employees 6 years ago, 10 last year, and they currently have 5 this year. Yes, you can develop your 35mm and 120 film at cheap send-in labs, but what happens when you want real prints or 4x5s or clip tests or prints from slides…. or basically anything that’s beyond the scope of developing and contact sheets? I ordered over 10 8x10 black and white prints from said 1 hour photo lab around 6 years ago, and today they all have a purple hue to them because they are very slowly solarizing… cheap labs rely mostly on machines and don’t necessarily have the freshest chemicals or leave everything the proper amount of time for “archival” quality. So basically, I’ll have to spend more to replace them with archival fiber prints than if I had just ordered them from Atelier Publimod (or any pro lab) in the first place.
Basically what I am saying is that it’s not always a bad thing to pay the real current price of film developing, while supporting local pro labs at the same time.
Apparently no one sells the developing tank I have, but I had a look around B&H and this one (assuming you meant plastic, metal is way more time consuming) looks really similar: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/25557-REG/Jobo_J2523_2_Reel_Tank_with_Cog.html
And for a bag, anything that looks like this is fine: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/70983-REG/Kalt_NP10102_Large_Changing_Bag_Double.html
I’ve compiled a bunch of handy links for film photography, you can find them in the left-hand column. Online film developing, cheap film, plastic and toy camera resources and articles, camera dealers, profesisonal labs and a whole bunch of other awesome stuff.
Developing C41 Color Film At Home (via inverseroom)
I have never attempted it, but apparently it can be done. Here’s a video on how to develop color film at home (C-41 process)
I suppose you are right, it would be nice to do a step by step tutorial…. but in the mean time I did post this tutorial from chromogenic.net maybe that will help: http://istillshootfilm.org/post/456903307/how-to-develop-your-own-film-on-chromogenic-net
The answer to your question is: not anymore. However, I about to give you a parent-style lecture on why you should do what I say and not what I do:
Most working photographers take their stuff to the lab; we also have assistants who set up all of our stuff…. but this is also because we earned the right to do so by doing it ourselves for years. I developed my own film for over 10 years, so I don’t feel guilty about dropping it off because I know that I know how to develop. It’s just a question of time and equipment. For color, obviously you have to drop it off, but for black and white you really should do it yourself… even if it’s only for a little while… at least until you get rid of the “I’m gonna wreck my film” feeling. And you might wreck your film. But it’s not the end of the world. This is why a lot of teachers ask students to work in Tri-X, because it’s very forgiving in the developing process. Don’t panic, it seems like a lot when you first develop film, but all it really is is following directions (they’re printed on the inside of the film box). Follow directions and you are golden.
Sometimes loading 120mm film onto a plastic reel can be tricky. Here’s a video that shows you how.
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