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Showing 80 posts tagged camera
New t-shirts! And of course, the original.
Gear Submission By: Mark Alan Thomas
“This is my favorite film camera, mostly for nostalgic reasons. It was my dad’s camera. I used it 30 years ago in jr high school, but then my parents got divorced, and it was 30 years before I heard from my dad again. I had been scanning some of the old film I shot back then, and just out of curiosity I asked my dad if he still had the camera. Incredibly, he did, and he said he’d hardly ever used it, and it was still basically brand new. He packed it into a box and mailed it to me with two lenses— the kit 50mm f/1.8, plus a nice Tokina pump-action zoom — and the original set of user guides. When I told my mom about this, she laughed and said, “That was my camera! He bought it for me for my birthday because HE wanted it!””
Film Photography Submission By: Diyosa Carter
-Rolleiflex SL66, Fuji FujiChrome Provia 400x
-Ricky’s Rollei: http://www.flickr.com/photos/diyosa/6277079888/in/set-72157626259825709
Gear Submission By: bnoman.tumblr.com
Olympus Pen taken with Canon T70 & Lucky 200 color film
or most used if you are unable to pick a favorite… upload a photo!
Meet My Kodak Brownie Starlet II
This baby was given to me by my wonderful sister-in-law and mother-in-law, complete with original packaging. The camera itself is in mint condition, works perfectly and actually looks as if it was never used.
A little on the Starlet II: it has a fixed-focus lens and was manufactured from 1957-1962. It takes 127 format film, but could easily be adapted for 35mm, with a 4x4 cm image size.
Gear Submission By: scottygriffin
Can’t wait to try this combo!
Film Photography Submission By: timmytheterrible
Leica M6 | Voigtlander 40mm f/1.4 | Fuji Xtra Superia 200
Film Photography Submission By: analogonly
Kodak Gold 200, Canon FTb
Meet My 4x5 Pinhole Camera (from the Lensless Camera Company)
I got this baby over a decade ago and the Lensless Camera Co. still makes them today. There is a giant elephant standing in the room that is this camera, which would namely be the now-useless 4x5 Polaroid back. At the time of purchase, I paid a hefty penny for that Polaroid back… and used the crap out of it. Now it’s basically the equivalent of a floppy disk, but more on that later…
I also have 4x5 backs which work with this camera (both 4x5 film and backs are still readily available for anyone interested in delving in to larger formats.) I don’t use it often, but I love the wood and simple design.
Meet My Praktica LLC:
This baby recently went on a little adventure and came back into my possession late last year. I nabbed it up a couple of years ago at a flea market here in Paris with an extra lens and the instruction manual for 20 euros. Apparently, these 35mm cameras were manufactured from 1969 to 1975 in Dresden, Germany. It is fully functioning and is pretty easy to use, although the shutter is in a slightly odd location.
35MM FILM CAMERA FOR SALE
- Cannon EOS Rebel. Hardly used.
- W/38-76mm zoom, UV & Polarizing filter, case & instruction book.
- Price: $125, plus $10 shipping to anywhere in the United States.
- Bangor Maine Location.
Please contact NancyNicholson12@gmail.com if you are interested in purchasing this camera.
Guest post written by Stephen Dowling. A New Zealander based in London, he is devoted to film photography. He also writes about music, current affairs and anything else that takes his fancy, and he’s never happer than when he has a film camera in his hands. See more of his work on his website, Flickr stream and Facebook Page.
One advantage for film photographers since the majority of the photo-taking world has gone digital is that there are some unbelievable film camera bargains to be had - with one of the biggest bargains being the Zenit E.
The Zenit E is a no-frills SLR, manufactured in the Soviet Union from 1965 to 1982. Millions of models were made and widely exported, giving the USSR much-needed hard cash while at the same time giving a new generation of photographers a cost-effective way to get into 35mm SLR photography.
In Europe, you’d be hard pressed to find a flea market or second-hand camera store that doesn’t have one of these on its shelves. Many photographers ditched their dirt-cheap Zenits as soon as they could afford something more sophisticated, making them surprisingly easy to find. When you bear in mind up to eight million of these sturdy beasts were made, that’s a lot of spare Zenits to go around.
Using the Zenit-E
Bells and whistles won’t be found on this heavy, roughly-finished camera. With a body made from a one-piece block of aluminium, the Zenit is much heaver than its contemporary counterparts. At the front is the meter window - the Zenit E doesn’t need batteries, instead taking its light readings using a selenium cell. Selenium cells die over time, and are very difficult to replace once they do. The shutter and advance are all mechanical, which means you’ll never have to worry about running out of batteries with one of these.
So how easy is it to use? Pretty easy, though to someone raised in a digital world, a few of the features might appear a little mysterious.
Opening the back is simple; pull up a latch on the back-left of the camera (from behind), and it swings open. Put the film into the left hand side chamber and pull the film leader out until the film sprocket holes catch on the teeth of the film transport on the right hand side (one on top, and one on the bottom), and tuck the end of the film leader under the metal strip which wraps around the take-up spool. Wind on, and if the film is loaded properly you’ll see the film start wrapping around the take up spool. Don’t worry if it takes a few goes. Practice is practice.
Once the film is loaded and wound (don’t forget to close the back!), you’re ready to shoot. Looking at the top plate from above, the meter readout is on the left hand side . Point the Zenit towards a light source and a needle will move in a little readout window - if your selenium cell is working. Next to it is a dial which allows you to set the film speed and turn the dial – this moves another needle with a circular head. When the two needles meet, they will then match a range of shutter/aperture combinations. There’s no exposure info in the viewfinder, which has the feel of an old TV screen – if the light changes drastically you have to recheck the meter and change the lens/shutter settings if need be. If your selenium meter is dead, consider purchasing an external light meter (always a good investment) or trying out the Sunny 16 Rule.
The shutter speeds on the right hand side of the top plate are pretty basic – 1/30th to 1/500th of a second, plus B – and you have to pull the speed selector up before you can select a different speed. The shutter button sits on the right hand side, inside the frame counter/wind on dial. When you’ve finished the film the camera won’t advance anymore. Pop the rewind knob up (it’s inside the exposure calculating dial) and press the button in between the shutter speed selector and frame counter. Turn the rewind knob in the direction of the helpful black arrow, and you should feel the film being returned to the cassette. There’s a definite “bite” when you reach the end.
Most Zenit Es came with a version of the Helio-44 58/2 lens – which is capable of truly excellent results. (link to this pic: http://www.flickr.com/photos/stephendowling/5289827285/). The earliest version are preset – meaning you have to open the aperture up to the maximum to focus, then stop down to expose correctly. This can take a lot of getting used to, so it’s best to go with a later version, which doesn’t close the aperture down until you take the pic. Most Zenit E’s take the M42 mount, which means other excellent lenses for the likes of Pentax, Praktica, Fujica and Chinon cameras can also be used.
When I mentioned at the start of the post that the Zenit was a bargain, I wasn’t joking. My model – inscribed with the logo of the 1980 Moscow Olympics – was picked up at London’s Greenwich Market nearly a decade ago, for only £4. Simply putting a roll of slide film in it doubled its value. The camera’s is great nick – no dents, dings or bits missing. Paired up with a lens like a Pentax Takumar 55/1.8, this is an inexpensive intro into film photography which can still deliver decent results. Even the selenium meter is working perfectly – check out the shot of the scooter, taken in Amalfi last year on Fuji Velvia. That’s four pounds well spent.
Check out Stephen’s blog, Zorki Photo!
Asked by aprintedbutterfly
It’s not a silly question :) The Mamiya 645 has a format of 6 x 4.5… so not square. Have you considered a Kiev 60? It’s a medium format SLR and shoots 6x6. You should be able to find one for under $200.
One of the questions I get the most on this blog is related to choosing a very first 35mm film camera. In fact, someone just asked me again the other day…. which is why I’ve decided to put together a mini-guide for choosing a 35mm film camera for anyone who is interested in film photography.
You may be saying to yourself, “Why on earth would I buy a film camera now?” While we may be in the heart of the digital age, there are actually many reasons to shoot film - far beyond the nostalgic appeal and low-fi effects. For a solid list, check out 11 Reasons to Shoot Film. For the purpose of this post, the most appealing aspect of shooting film is that you can purchase incredible high-quality, professional-level cameras at insanely low (and sometimes depressing) prices.
If you’re a newbie to the film world, trying to distinguish between a Nikon FM, Canon AE-1 or Pentax K1000 may seem scary, but in reality they all use the same basic functions. So, without further ado, here are 4 basic things to look for when choosing your very first 35mm film camera:
1. Make sure the camera has a fully manual function.
If you have decided to learn film photography, you might as well really go all the way and learn to shoot fully manual for total control. Shooting fully manual means that no automatic settings are used, and you will need to correctly balance your shutter speed, aperture, and ISO to achieve a proper exposure. If you need help in that area, have a look at Exposure 101 in my Beginner’s Guide to Film Photography. Some cameras will have an “M” on the dial to use the manual function, other cameras may feature an “A” for automatic and then display shutter speeds. Most cameras manufactured before the 1980’s are manual and have few (if any) automatic settings.
I cannot stress the importance of shooting fully manual, even when it comes to digital photography. Learning this process will fine tune your photography skills all around and you will probably notice an improvement in your digital photos as well. After years and years of light metering and Sunny 16-ing, I’ve gotten to a point where I can look at a situation and guestimate the correct exposure pretty accurately. No joke, someone just tested me on an airplane and I gave the exact exposure as his light meter. Acquiring this type of skill is an incredible advantage when shooting in “real world conditions” and the easiest way to do it is to force yourself to shoot manual.
2. Choose a common model which will be easy to repair .
When investing in your first 35mm film camera, try to choose a relatively common make and model that should be easy to maintain and repair. As much as obscure cameras are beautiful pieces sought after by collectors, the upkeep and repair can get quite pricey as most will require a specialist if they break. The following brands are guaranteed safe bets:
- Leica (rangefinder)
These large, well-known brands produced many models and can be found (and repaired) all over the world. It is also easier to find an instruction manual for more common camera models. Choosing a common camera model also makes it easier to find extra lenses and accessories such as motorized bottoms (imperative for those who shoot fast.)
3. Opt for a built-in light meter.
Learning correct exposure will be difficult at first when learning to shoot film, and you will not have that handy digital display screen to check your work. Opting for a camera with a built in light meter will save you a lot of money on wasted film as well as facilitate the process of learning exposure. Most film cameras manufactured after the 1950’s come with some form of light meter, but it is best to avoid cameras with Selenium light meters when starting out. Selenium light meters are small strips that look similar to a blank solar calculator screen running across the top of the camera, or around the exterior of the lens. Once the selenium light meter dies, it is difficult and expensive to have replaced. Choose a camera which has a battery operated light meter so that when it dies you can easily replace the battery.
4. Look for models that use a “standard” 35mm system.
This tip relates to the “choosing a common model” tip, but even big brands have manufactured camera anomalies. Occasionally, but not often, cameras were made that differed quite noticeably from the average 35mm camera - for example requiring the photographer to stop down the aperture before being able to set the shutter speed. Another example - my Fed 5 requires cocking the shutter before changing the shutter speed. These types of cameras were not very successful due to their complicated usage, but collectors snap them up so you may stumble upon one unknowingly. A quick internet search will tell you if the camera you are interested in has any strange instructions or complicated features.
*If you’re not purchasing from a store or authorized dealer, be sure to review this list of things to check when purchasing a vintage camera.